Gelje said he convinced his Chinese client to give up his summit attempt and descend the mountain, saying it was important for him to rescue the climber.
“Saving one life is more important than praying at the monastery,” said Gelje, a devout Buddhist.
Tashi Lakhpa Sherpa of the Seven Summit Treks company, which provided logistics to the Malaysian climber, declined to name him, citing his client’s privacy. The climber was put on a flight to Malaysia last week.
Nepal issued a record 478 permits for Everest during this year’s March to May climbing season.
At least 12 climbers have died – the highest number for eight years, and another five are still missing on Everest’s slopes.