Hilsa: The end of fish diplomacy between India and Bangladesh?

Indians in West Bengal may experience a lack of hilsa, their favorite tuna, as million gear up to enjoy the state’s biggest event, Durga Puja, in October.

That is because Bangladesh, the world’s largest manufacturer of the bass, has intensified its assault on the transport of hilsa to neighbouring India, reinforcing a long-standing ban on imports.

The renewed effort, which came a month after a new government took office in Dhaka, is to ensure that the prized fish remains more accessible to consumers in Bangladesh, according to Farida Akhter, adviser to the Bangladesh ministry of fisheries and livestock.

Despite the ban, a lot of seafood is still being transported from Bangladesh to India. This time, we wo n’t permit the hilsa to cross the border, ” she told the BBC.

Hilsa is Bangladesh’s regional bass but it is a luxury, inexpensive only for the affluent and middle course; the poor ca n’t buy it.

The restrictions would be lifted during the Durga Puja festival, according to the previous state. They used to refer to it as a surprise. This time, I do n’t believe we need to give a gift because [if we do it], our people wo n’t be able to eat the fish while it is permitted to be exported to India in large numbers, Ms Akhter said.

Sheikh Hasina’s renowned “hilsa politics” with India, where she frequently permitted shipment of the bass to be transported there during the festival winter, is clearly a withdrawal.

Hasina has sent hilsa to West Bengal chief minister Mamata Banerjee on a number of occasions. Hoping to resolve a long-standing water dispute, she also gifted 30kg of hilsa to the then Indian president Pranab Mukherjee in 2017.

Hasina was removed dramatically on 5 August after weeks of student-led protests that escalated into deadly nationwide unrest. Initially expected to stay in India briefly, her attempts to secure asylum in the UK, US and UAE have so far failed.

Her continued presence in India has also complicated Delhi’s efforts to build a strong relationship with the new interim government in Dhaka. For India, Bangladesh is a key strategic partner and ally, vital for border security, especially in its north-eastern states.

When questioned about whether the new interim government may have encouraged India by allowing the source of hilsa, Ms. Akhter responded,” We may have kindness movements in all other way.” They are our companions. However, we should n’t do anything by excluding our citizens.

The issue of kindness is distinct from this. ”

The Bay of Bengal is home to the largest number of hilsa ( Tenualosa ilisha ), a type of fish native to the herring that is found abundant in the country and also flourishes in rivers.

The fish accounts for about 12% of the country’s total fish production and contributes around 1% to its GDP. Fishermen catch up to 600,000 tonnes of the fish annually, the majority of the haul coming from the sea. In 2017, hilsa was recognised as a geographical Indicator for the country.

In past years, the government permitted the export of 3,000-5,000 tonnes of hilsa annually during Durga Puja, senior fisheries official Nripendra Nath Biswas told The Daily Star newspaper.

The government has decided to halt hilsa export this year because of the country’s limited supply of fish, he said.

However, reports from Bangladeshi media indicate that hilsa prices have increased in the local business despite the trade restrictions.

A 1. 5kg hilsa was selling for around 1,800 taka ($ 15; £11. 50 ), 1. 2kg for 1,600 baht, and one kilograms for 1,500 baht. These costs are 150-200 baht higher than last year, say investors.

Anglers attribute bad catches to the rate increase. ” In the past three decades, we tried to go to sea five days but had to turn up due to harsh climate,” said Hossain Miah, a man.

Bengalis on both sides of the border are nearly ensnared by Hilsa, and its abundance will deter some.

The fish is renowned for its flexibility, frequently cooked in a variety of ways, including steamed with ketchup powder, which enhances its gentle flavor, or fried with a light covering of spices for a crunchy texture.

Chitrita Banerji, a Bengali-American author and historian of foods, is one of the many authors who has written raving reviews of the fish.

“I think its enduring role as an icon of Bengali food is a combination of many elements, not the least being its physical beauty, which has led Bengali writers to describe it as the darling of the waters or a prince among fish,” she told an interviewer.

” And its tender flesh ( bony though it may be ), combined with an emollient texture and exquisite flavor, lends itself to an infinite variety of culinary preparations. “