Leng Noei Yi, located at the heart of Bangkok’s Yaowarat area, is also a significant cultural link for Thais of Chinese descent, write Supoj Wancharoen and Oraphin Phangyang
The Year of the Dragon begins on Saturday, the start of the Lunar New Year, which is especially meaningful for Thais with Chinese ancestry.
Amid the festive celebrations, another bond that links the two cultures is their shared belief in dispelling any bad fortune that may be in line in the road ahead. This is often referred to as “fixing a cursed year”. In Thai, “cursed year” is Pi Chong, while avoiding bad luck is Kae Chong.
Wat Mangkon Kamalawat, also known as Wat Leng Noei Yi, in the Yaowarat area of Pomprap Sattruphai district, is commonly known as Bangkok’s Chinatown.
The holy site ranks as one of the most visited temples in the country, and it is a place where Thais of Chinese descent visit during the Lunar New Year to make merit and perform special rites to exorcise any portents of bad luck.
The temple’s Cantonese name — Leng Noei Yi, which means “dragon lotus temple”, is expected to draw even larger crowds during this year’s celebration.
“Every year, I come here at least once during the Chinese New Year festival,” said visitor Kanyarat Heman.
“Since we don’t really know what will happen to us or our loved ones, making merit and thinking about good things [at the start of the New Year] will at least make us feel more calm,” she said.
Making merit makes her contemplate the mistakes she made in the past year and makes her promise she will not repeat them this year, she said.
Ms Kanyarat said she visits the temple every year because she believes that it is a sacred place — a notion shared by others who come to make merit and wishes.
“This temple is best known as a holy place most suitable for performing the rite to ward off bad luck we’re doomed to encounter at some point,” said Somchai Charusomphon, a 63-year-old visitor.
“I come twice a year because I feel good whenever I’m here. It’s just for the rite to exorcise my bad fortune,” he said.
He said he has developed a strong bond with the temple as his father was a Chinese migrant who settled here years ago.
Built during the reign of King Rama V, the Chinese Mahayana Buddhist temple sits at the heart of Yaowarat.
“Thais and Chinese are more like neighbours, so our temples share certain similarities,” said Mr Somchai.
This year, he brought a friend, Suraphong Sabaichit, who was visiting the temple for the first time.
Mr Suraphong said his first impression was that the temple had beautiful Chinese architecture, which he described as being akin to an interesting art exhibition.
“It’s much easier to get here now thanks to the access provided by the MRT underground electric train system,” he said.
“And as we no longer have to worry about where to park our car, we have more time to explore Yaowarat and enjoy some of the delicious street food.”
Talking talismans
Apart from visiting temples, some Thai-Chinese buy talismans and other New Year gifts to ward off bad luck.
One man, who gave his name as Tony, 60, told the Bangkok Post he had recently purchased some dragon-shaped lanterns.
“I believe this Year of the Golden Dragon will bring me a big fortune, and I expect good things are in store for me this Lunar New Year,” he said.
He was referring to one of the five elements — earth, wood, metal (gold), fire and water — that go alongside the 12 animal signs in the Chinese zodiac.
Sirikarn Ratanopap, 22, said she had snapped up an “auspicious” bracelet with a dragon pendant to bring her good luck.
“This Chinese New Year, I’m paying my respects to my ancestors who passed away while also enjoying some rest with my family,” Ms Sirikarn said.
Siripha Jamrunkit, 22, who also bought a dragon-themed accessory for good fortune, said she believed this would be her lucky year.
At the temple, she wished for health and happiness for her family for the year ahead, Ms Siripha said.